Naples may be famous for its pizza, but the meatballs are just as deserving of worldwide acclaim. Massive orbs of ground beef are set in a shallow pool of ragù, red and glistening, and are served as often alongside pasta as without. Despite their impressive size, they’re light and ultra-tender, thanks to a high ratio of bread to meat.

In this recipe from our latest cookbook, “Milk Street Backroads Italy,” we use Japanese panko breadcrumbs, which have a neutral flavor and a light and fluffy but coarse texture. It greatly streamlines the meatball-making process, eliminating the need to remove the crusts from fresh bread, soak it in water and squeeze out excess moisture. Panko only needs to be moistened with water and it’s ready to use.

I ate a lot of things that surprised me when I lived in Hong Kong in my mid-20s, often from carts hidden from street view in back alleys or larger street-side stalls known as dai pai dong. And I have to say, save for one unfortunate dinner that included fresh sea urchin, I never regretted these impromptu meals.

Street snacks made by “hawkers,” i.e. licensed street vendors, in Hong Kong are often amazing noshes. And way back when, they also were cheap enough to fit our budget as a young married couple just starting out in the then crowded British territory.